The spark plug heat shields, the engine lifting brackets, the dipstick tube, a brace for the smog gear that sits over the driver's side intake, part of the smog pump tubing, and a brace that supports the upper intake manifold. With the engine apart and reasonably clean, I then checked all of the key measurements to see how they compared to the published engine specs. This was the first model year to also experience problems with cruise control, resulting in a that could combust regardless of whether the vehicle was running or not. One thing I failed to mention. The next day, I stopped back to get the rings - score! When it stalls, I put it in park after coasting off the road and stop, turn the key, and it fires up without issue. Even better, I have to prepay to get a set shipped in and there are no returns on them once I order them. Not rocket science, just paying attention to details and wishing I had taken more photos on teardown.
I neglected to get any pictures with the rotating assembly installed before the various other parts went on, oh well. I had installed it into the intake manifold on the driver's side, but apparently it only goes there on the 5. It's not the brightest idea to interrupt an engine rebuild like this, but life happens sometimes. I checked the specs on the rings the internet is a wonderful tool at times and they're for the right application - they fit pretty much every Ford 5. The cam, cam thrust plate, oil pump, oil pickup tube, timing set, and front cover went on without too much trauma.
. I pulled the timing chain and gears to make it easier to spin the motor around, and I pulled the oil pump and pickup assembly to get better access to the bottom end. It's mostly fool-proof due to molded connectors and different size hoses in critical areas, but it did require a bit of head-scratching to get the initial details sorted out. After some more quality phone time with , the best idea that came up was to visit the Ford dealer and maybe a local engine rebuilder and see if they could help. I changed a lot of the parts Carfax said it sat for 10 years. The water pump had a few issues sorting out which studs went where, but for that I had a nearby motor to compare against so it wasn't too painful. Have you tried driving with just a single key in the ignition switch, rather than a key ring full of keys? The first day back on the project was somewhat of a mad scramble to find parts, wrap up small details, and clean lots of hardware so we could install stuff.
Using screwdrivers as scrapers, we gently removed as much as we could and vacuumed up the rest. This engine was supposedly a good running engine when the was rolled, but before I stuck it in the I wanted to verify all was well - removing and installing an engine is a non-trivial exercise. The four-speed automatic transmission was not available with the V-6 engine. The local Ford dealer was about as useless as they come - the rings are a discontinued item and they can't even guarantee they will fit. At this point I was far enough along to get out my spiffy new Ford oil pump priming tool, dump some oil into the engine, and prime the engine with a hand drill to see if it had any oil leaks. There are some pieces for the throttle linkage and such I could mess with at this point, but not much else really needs to be done before it's ready to go into the truck.
The oil pan, valve covers, lower intake manifold, and heads all got the same treatment. That might be a place to start if you do it yourself. At that point I knew the cam had to come out so I could remove the remnants of the busted lifter. Parts Gathering and Machine Shop Work Next up is gathering parts for the basic rebuild of this motor. The diagrams in the factory manual were elusive at first, and even when found, they did not show the plastic supports.
The gaskets I already had from the teardown step, and the paint I got a my local parts store. In addition to the lifter valley, I also painted the sections of the heads that overhung the lifter valley to help prevent sludge from gaining a foothold there. I then installed the new rear main seal and the harmonic balancer - after the balancer was cleaned and painted. Suffice to say it went well and I got eight clean and reconditioned injectors to put into the motor. The bearings were worn into the copper, but not gouged, scarred, or damaged - it looked like a typical high mileage motor that was tired but would have run fine for a while. The clutch alignment tool came in the clutch kit I bought. They did dribble sand while being moved around, and will need a more thorough cleaning before they are installed onto the engine.
Other stuff is more obvious that it has to wait until the engine is in - radiator hoses, wiring hookups, and other such fun details. Inside, a new dash and instrument panel were installed. Any insight and help would be greatly appreciated. I did this same thing on , and that seemed to work pretty well. The driver's side front accessories are all hanging in the engine compartment attached to the power steering system, so they will come later. I also opted to paint the lifter valley with oil-based paint.
The main caps came off without any problems and the crank came out without incident. You'd be surprised how much weight the extended cab adds to the truck. Jerad1389: That volt meter is very intriguing. With the four-speed auto and the 5. As the above notes indicate, this is pretty darned good for a higher mileage motor. I even cleaned up the grungy oil drain plug before it was installed.
Since I was in there, I might as well do it, right? This kept the transfer case gears lubricated even if the engine wasn't running. Unless all of the crud and carbon was removed, the rings couldn't compress properly and the pistons were a very tight fit in the bores. The interior was reworked and restyled to be both more comfortable and more current-looking. The oil ring goes in fine, but it all comes to a halt at the second lower compression ring. Add in that there are two different length bolts to get through the manifold, and it took some time to get right. I put a ring in the cylinder to make sure that it fits without having the ring ends ram into each other aka, not a mislabeled box of rings - oversize rings would not compress onto the piston properly and that's all good.