When I finished the second quart, fluid came pouring back out and I stuck my finger in and down and it felt full. I just wish I would have done the transfer case a bit sooner. Start with an 18mm socket ratchet or wrench and remove the drain plug on the back of the transfer case. When activated it turns the sector shaft of the transfer case clockwise or counter clockwise to shift the transfer case. For the Borg-Warner Transfer Cases, an identification tag is attached to an extension housing bolt. The gearmotor encoder assembly is mounted externally on the transfer case. Proper identification is the key to knowing what fluid you need, just like vms4evr described.
You may want to state in the write up to reinstall the fill plug. The fluid also contains a better friction modifier. Here are some more threads about this. . All the shavings I'm seeing here gives me reason to believe I should be doing my diffs and trans case far sooner than I was expecting to do them. I don't have a grinder so I will ask my mechanic buddies if they can help me out.
On the back of the T-case there should be a metal tag with the model number on it. Give the fluid time to drain completely from the transfer case. That additive stops chatter in some of the parts in some transmissions. So, does anyone here know for sure if my truck takes it? Kent Moore makes all those special tools you see in the shop manuals that list a Jxxxx tool, etc. Even some of the older vehicles, 1990. Identify the Drain and Fill Bolts: I have marked the drain and fill bolts in this picture of my transfer case. Test run the truck and check the transfer case for leaks.
Note the condition of the drain bolt: Mine had a significant amount of metal shavings on the magnetic drain bolt. Both provide easier cold starting and better protection for the engine at extremely low temperatures. You don't have the knowledge or test equipment to fix this. Thank you thank you both for the very helpful information!! Both plugs looked like that. I'll have to check mine as well. I just put the funnel right up there.
I don't care what you are working on. I'm getting ready to drain and fill my transfer case for the winter. The tag provides the transfer case model number, the serial number, a build date, and a low range reduction ratio. The tag provides the transfer case model number, the low range reduction ratio, and the assembly part number. He said that he thought it was but there is no idication on the bottle that if it is synthetic or not. This forum is meant only for members who wish to post the specific steps to complete a project or modification of some sort.
Secondly, if it doesn't, would it be okay to run it in my transfer case anyway? One thing you did not mention that came to mind was anti-lock brakes. When I finished the second quart, fluid came pouring back out and I stuck my finger in and down and it felt full. Although, to the point above, the fluid was nice and red, and clean. Two quartz or four pints. And y'all make sure you put the fill plug back in! Either way things should not be binding. I was surprised by how much, given that the truck only has 18,000 miles on it.
I am pretty happy I got them all changed. I am sure it is from break in. Also, I'm wondering what kind of gear oil to use for the front diff. If no front driveshaft install then there is zero connection of front to back. Z71Silvy -- I used Auto 4wd quite a bit last winter. If you have the autotrac.
Learned that lesson last month when I did the rear diff fluid. . You need to always know you can fill it back up. . These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. I just make sure that I wipe it down really well that way I can inspect it after a while and just make sure there's nothing leaking out.
Position the drain pan under the transfer case. Can anyone confirm that my front diff doesn't take 3 quarts? Good luck and hope this helps. You never know, someone might actually forget to do it since you didn't state to do so. Ensure that the plugs and fasteners go back into their original holes, and use only the factory-authorized thread sealant. Checking for codes in the 4X4 control module should have been the first step.
The stalling out may be related, but I doubt it, there are many possible things this could be. It's easier than changing your oil! You may want to double-check, but I'm almost positive the modern standard part-time transfer cases i. Apply a coat of sealant to the threads of the drain plug and install it in the transfer case. If applicable, install the transfer case shield and torque the fasteners to 15 foot-pounds. The previous fluid and the new fluid can be mixed or topped off if necessary. Your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop. Follow these simple steps to change your fluid: 1.